Electric guitars and basses typically have a wide latitude of adjustments - truss rod, bridge, string saddles, bolt on neck tweaking, and perhaps the nut. Setups can run higher in price for special guitar considerations such as "weird" unorthodox bridges, 12 strings, B-benders, multi necks, etc.

Acoustic instruments typically have a very small latitude of non-invasive adjustments, basically limited to the truss rod (if present), saddle height, and perhaps the nut.

"Partscaster" instrument assembly typically includes joining the neck and body, installing tuners and string trees, pickugard/pickup installation, bridge and tailpiece - all based on hardware costs, work time and complexity. Intstalling and fitting a nut is a separate assembly function, as is pickup and electronics wiring. Body wood routing for pickups, controls, internal battery, PCB board, etc. all require an additional charge, also based on work time and complexity. NOTE: there is a minimum $20 added surcharge for any electronics work on hollow and semi-hollow instruments!

Pickup installation/removal, electronics rewiring, changing pots, switches, jacks, custom wiring, etc., are priced based on hardware costs, work time and complexity. Body wood routing for pickups, controls, internal battery, PCB board, etc. all require an additional charge, also based on work time and complexity. NOTE: there is a minimum $20 added surcharge for any electronics work on hollow and semi-hollow instruments!

Installed, cut and set up to the string gauge of your choice. Nut material choices are either ivory/amber vintage bone or black African water buffalo horn.

Installed, cut and set up to the string gauge of your choice. Saddle material choices are either ivory/amber vintage bone or black African water buffalo horn.

Fret End Dress - Flush file, round and polish fret ends that have "sprouted" due to fretboard wood drying out and shrinking.

Fret Level & Crown - If the fret divots and flat spots are deeper than 30% the height of the original crown height, it's really time for a refret. There are different schools of thought and action regarding fret wear. If the wear doesn't bother playability or action or tone, some folks just leave well enuf alone and wait 'til the frets become an issue, and typically that's the time for a refret. Others prefer to get one or two L&C's done before a refret is required in order to keep the playability and action consistent (as the frets really wear down, the only compensation is to raise the action to help kill the buzzing). Just some things to consider.

Refret - All refrets include a level and crown and high fret polish. If the fingerboard is maple, and you wish the board to be sanded level, you'll have a choice of leaving the board raw (no charge), tung oiled, or refinished. I specialize in refretting unbound maple fingerboards without the need to refinish.

Frets can be of most any crown dimension you prefer and I carry a wide assortment of sizes in stock. I only use 18% German nickel silver hard frets. As with most techs and luthiers, I won't work on stainless steel frets - when proper tools for handling stainless steel becomes available, I'll offer to work with them, but so far no tool manufacturer is offering luthier cutters, files and abrasives that will work properly and have decent life spans with stainless steel.

If the new frets have crowns that are higher than the original new frets, a new nut will probably be needed since the current nut slots will be too low for the new frets. I only use either vintage unbleached cow bone or African water buffalo horn nut materials, installed with the string gauge of your choice. If the neck in question is a bolt on, but not licensed Fender neck, I'll need the entire guitar in order to install a new nut.

If the guitar has a bolt-on neck licensed Fender neck, I don't need the entire guitar to do a refret, just the neck. If you send off the entire guitar, it'll get setup with new strings, all at no charge.

Fretboard Re-radius - Lots depends on your requirements and neck specifics!